Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Pig's Head Feast
I'm tackling my first Pig's Head on Dec. 19th. Still contemplating how I will prepare it. I received it halved, so I'm thinking I may do half hot and half headcheese. We'll see. In the meantime, I really want to do at least one of these classes at Mado.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Schwa
Ed. Note: I'm posting this in the hopes of adding more descriptions to the bottom, but I have been MIA for so long and have wanted to post this, so I'm just gonna do it.
Well, we finally made it. After two years of near misses, cancellations, etc. we had reached our destination: Schwa. The vibe we had heard so much about was immediately apparent as Chef/Owner Michael Carlson graciously greeted us and asked where we wanted to sit:
Carlson pointing to back table: "That table's kinda cool," then pointing to a front corner table, "That's a good one too, let's put you there."
He took our wine, then came back with a random bottle of wine "something from Austria, to start you off." I'd heard about this too, maybe a leftover, who knows.
So, there are five chefs who all serve as well. One of the other chefs came out and explained that there was a three course which was on the menu in front of us and a nine-course, which they didn't get printed up that day. Of course, we elected for the nine course, which really turned out to be twelve. So, without further adieu, the menu:
Course 1: Hendricks Gin Bubble Tea
Before the dish came out Carlson grabbed a bottle of Hendricks Gin explaining that the predominant flavor in gins is juniper, but Hendricks is unique, in that, it is infused with Rose and Cucumber. Then he said remember the flavors Rose, Cucumber and Coriander. Then we received little glasses of our "bubble tea." Forgive me if this description is a bit off, Cucumber water with tapioca balls marinated in rose water, hendricks gin gelee, coriander ice and a dollop of juniper cream on top.
This was a nice, fun, complex and refreshing way to kick off the meal.
Course 2: Peekytoe Crab Salad
Three piles of peekytoe crab salad, each topped with a fried plantain, accompanied by a yuzu marinated royal king mushroom. Banana puree and royal king mushroom puree.
Again a super fun and adventurous dish, with the tartness of the yuzu and crab salad playing against the sweetness of the banana flavor. Really excellent.
Course 3: The Pea Plate
English Pea Soup. English peas with split pea hummus and pea powder.
Sometimes the simplest dishes are the best. I can say unequivocally these are the best peas I have ever tasted. Everybody I've told this laughs, which I would too. But, once you taste this you'll know. The soup was not your pasty split pea variety, it was silky smooth and incredibly flavorful. The peas were perfectly cooked, not hard, but not mushy and the flavor was perfection. One of the best dishes of the evening.
Course 4: Cauliflower and Cocoa
Cauliflower Tortelloni on cauliflower puree, shaved Spanish cheese (sorry I don't remember the variety), sprinkled with cocoa chunks, all in a cocoa consomme.
This was the most challenging dish, very complex and strong flavors. The cauliflower elements were very good, but it was a bit much with the bitterness of the consomme and cocoa chunks. I respect what they are doing here, but was one of the least successful, which means it's still better than most other dishes around.
Course 5: Quail Egg Ravioli
Quail egg yolks with buffalo ricotta cheese inside egg pasta Ravi. The ravioli luxuriated in a brown butter sauce with white truffle oil. They were topped with shaved Parmesan and fried sage.
Course 6: Kona Kampachi Maki, Root Beer Rice, Flying Fish Roe, Root Beer Dipping Sauce, Housemade Root Beer shot
Course 7: Butter Poached Lobster, Fava Beans, Parsley Puree, Pickled Ramps, Toasted Quinoa, Pancetta Chip, Melted Cheese
Course 8: Chicken Liver Mousse encased in Turmeric gel, Rutabega balls, braised Mustard Greens, Peanut Puree, Beer Foam
Course 9: Seared Duck Breast atop Brussel Sprouts atop Shaved Duck, Butternut Squash puree, Shanved Summer Truffle,
Shaved Bitter Chocolate
Course 10: Dehydrated Cow Cheese from Northern Italy, topped with Egg Custard, Powdered Honey
Course 11: Strawberry Soup, Basil, Black Pepper Ice Cream, Rhubarb Cube and Puree, Pushed Frozen Foie Gras
Course 12: Lavender Cone stuffed with White Chocolate, Red Beet Ice Cream with Pink Peppercorn on top, three drops of Bacon
Bitters compliments of the Violet Hour
Well, we finally made it. After two years of near misses, cancellations, etc. we had reached our destination: Schwa. The vibe we had heard so much about was immediately apparent as Chef/Owner Michael Carlson graciously greeted us and asked where we wanted to sit:
Carlson pointing to back table: "That table's kinda cool," then pointing to a front corner table, "That's a good one too, let's put you there."
He took our wine, then came back with a random bottle of wine "something from Austria, to start you off." I'd heard about this too, maybe a leftover, who knows.
So, there are five chefs who all serve as well. One of the other chefs came out and explained that there was a three course which was on the menu in front of us and a nine-course, which they didn't get printed up that day. Of course, we elected for the nine course, which really turned out to be twelve. So, without further adieu, the menu:
Course 1: Hendricks Gin Bubble Tea
Before the dish came out Carlson grabbed a bottle of Hendricks Gin explaining that the predominant flavor in gins is juniper, but Hendricks is unique, in that, it is infused with Rose and Cucumber. Then he said remember the flavors Rose, Cucumber and Coriander. Then we received little glasses of our "bubble tea." Forgive me if this description is a bit off, Cucumber water with tapioca balls marinated in rose water, hendricks gin gelee, coriander ice and a dollop of juniper cream on top.
This was a nice, fun, complex and refreshing way to kick off the meal.
Course 2: Peekytoe Crab Salad
Three piles of peekytoe crab salad, each topped with a fried plantain, accompanied by a yuzu marinated royal king mushroom. Banana puree and royal king mushroom puree.
Again a super fun and adventurous dish, with the tartness of the yuzu and crab salad playing against the sweetness of the banana flavor. Really excellent.
Course 3: The Pea Plate
English Pea Soup. English peas with split pea hummus and pea powder.
Sometimes the simplest dishes are the best. I can say unequivocally these are the best peas I have ever tasted. Everybody I've told this laughs, which I would too. But, once you taste this you'll know. The soup was not your pasty split pea variety, it was silky smooth and incredibly flavorful. The peas were perfectly cooked, not hard, but not mushy and the flavor was perfection. One of the best dishes of the evening.
Course 4: Cauliflower and Cocoa
Cauliflower Tortelloni on cauliflower puree, shaved Spanish cheese (sorry I don't remember the variety), sprinkled with cocoa chunks, all in a cocoa consomme.
This was the most challenging dish, very complex and strong flavors. The cauliflower elements were very good, but it was a bit much with the bitterness of the consomme and cocoa chunks. I respect what they are doing here, but was one of the least successful, which means it's still better than most other dishes around.
Course 5: Quail Egg Ravioli
Quail egg yolks with buffalo ricotta cheese inside egg pasta Ravi. The ravioli luxuriated in a brown butter sauce with white truffle oil. They were topped with shaved Parmesan and fried sage.
Course 6: Kona Kampachi Maki, Root Beer Rice, Flying Fish Roe, Root Beer Dipping Sauce, Housemade Root Beer shot
Course 7: Butter Poached Lobster, Fava Beans, Parsley Puree, Pickled Ramps, Toasted Quinoa, Pancetta Chip, Melted Cheese
Course 8: Chicken Liver Mousse encased in Turmeric gel, Rutabega balls, braised Mustard Greens, Peanut Puree, Beer Foam
Course 9: Seared Duck Breast atop Brussel Sprouts atop Shaved Duck, Butternut Squash puree, Shanved Summer Truffle,
Shaved Bitter Chocolate
Course 10: Dehydrated Cow Cheese from Northern Italy, topped with Egg Custard, Powdered Honey
Course 11: Strawberry Soup, Basil, Black Pepper Ice Cream, Rhubarb Cube and Puree, Pushed Frozen Foie Gras
Course 12: Lavender Cone stuffed with White Chocolate, Red Beet Ice Cream with Pink Peppercorn on top, three drops of Bacon
Bitters compliments of the Violet Hour
Monday, July 20, 2009
Good job Google Ads
Just noticed there's an ad for Jewish recipes on this, my pork blog. Well played.
Foie Gras Poutine
Terrence Henry over at the Atlantic heeds my advice and tries the Foie Gras Poutine at Au Pied de Cochon. One of the greatest dishes on the face of the planet.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
The Publican...and The Gage...and Schwa
Alright, now for the crazy story of my birthday dinner and this blog's nefariously involvement therein.
So, as you, dear readers, are fully aware, I was under the impression that we would be enjoying the porcine delights of the Publican. See posts below. Well, the reason we were going to the Publican was because we were unable to get a reservation at the notoriously impenetrable Schwa (we've been trying for a year). As it turns out, my wife had, in fact, procured a reservation to Schwa, but didn't tell me as much so as to surprise me.
So, imagine her bewilderment when she saw my blog posts and e-mail to the Publican. Being proactive she phoned the Publican and explained the situation which led to the e-mail response from the Publican posted below. During that phone conversation the kind woman explained that they were having a Father's Day price fixed menu, so my wife made a reservation for that.
To recap, reservations so far Schwa for birthday and Publican for Father's Day.
But the plot thickened.
My wife called me on Friday, the day we were supposed to go to the Publican and said there had been a change of plans. The Publican had sustained water damage from the storm the night before and she had to make reservations somewhere else. Which really meant Schwa had sustained water damage and she had to make reservations somewhere else. Enter The Gage.
The Gage Meal:
Course 1: Scotch Egg Mustard
Course 2: Rillettes Duck and Foie Gras Cherry Compote, Mustard
Course 3: Caramelized Lobster Lemon Quinoa, Basil, Chili
Peppered Angus Hanger Steak Corsican Feta, Watermelon, Red Onion,
Basil, Mint, Aged Vinegar Syrup, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Dessert: “Bar Snacks” Vanilla Tuille, Milk and White Chocolate,
Stout Pastry Cream, Cashew and Caramel Ice Cream, Pretzel
A good meal, I think the standout was the Rillettes, which I've been wanting to try but haven't. Potted meat goodness. Can't wait to try the pork variety. The caramelized lobster was a bit over seasoned and sweet for me, but my wife really enjoyed it. And conversely the Hanger Steak was a bit under seasoned for me, but it is still my favorite steak.
Of course, the Publican meal remained on Father's Day, what a treat! On top of the four course meal there was a beer pairing. But, not any beer pairing, Father Isaac of the only Trappist Brewery outside of Belgium had flown in from the Netherlands to offer the beers of La Trappe.
Publican Meal
Starters: Spicy pork rinds Slagel Family Farm, Fairbury, Illinois
Chef's selection of oysters
Course 1: A sweet salad of strawberries, beets, mint, ricotta salata, honeycomb and muscatel vinegar
Beer 1: Witte Trappist
Course 2: Smoked Duck Breast
Beer 2: Isad'or (Never before served in the States!)
Course 3: Buckwheat Pasta with Sweetbreads
Beer 3: La Trappe Dubbel
Course 4: Porchetta
Beer 4: La Trappe Tripel
Course 5: Apricot Tart with Oatmeal Ice Cream
Beer 5: La Trappe Quadrupel
The meal was excellent. The smoked duck breast also had these crispy shavings of duck that were great. The sweetbreads were cooked well. The porchetta was fantastic. I had the porchetta at Mado as well and I liked this one better. The one at Mado was very different (more on that in the soon to come Mado recap), the one had an almost hammy taste and was sliced very thin with TONS of fat, oh sweet pork fat how your flavor imbues such wonders on all it touches. The tart was sweet and light and the ice cream was great. The beers were spectacular each with its own character and complexity. We were all impressed as well with the serving sizes. There were three of us and the meal was served family style and we left completely satisfied but not overfull, a tricky thing to pull off. I can't wait to go back.
Ah, but friends there is a final chapter to this story, lest you have forgotten about Schwa. What happened to that reservation?! Well, the reservation was rescheduled for that Wednesday! Yes, The Gage, Schwa and the Publican in a week. And, no, we are not independently wealthy. But, a twist! Due to a family emergency we were forced to cancel the Schwa reservation. However, my wife worked her magic once more and we have a reservation for July 18th, so now you have another blog post to look forward to. Phew, what an adventure. But, there is never a dull moment in the Adventures of Pork.
So, as you, dear readers, are fully aware, I was under the impression that we would be enjoying the porcine delights of the Publican. See posts below. Well, the reason we were going to the Publican was because we were unable to get a reservation at the notoriously impenetrable Schwa (we've been trying for a year). As it turns out, my wife had, in fact, procured a reservation to Schwa, but didn't tell me as much so as to surprise me.
So, imagine her bewilderment when she saw my blog posts and e-mail to the Publican. Being proactive she phoned the Publican and explained the situation which led to the e-mail response from the Publican posted below. During that phone conversation the kind woman explained that they were having a Father's Day price fixed menu, so my wife made a reservation for that.
To recap, reservations so far Schwa for birthday and Publican for Father's Day.
But the plot thickened.
My wife called me on Friday, the day we were supposed to go to the Publican and said there had been a change of plans. The Publican had sustained water damage from the storm the night before and she had to make reservations somewhere else. Which really meant Schwa had sustained water damage and she had to make reservations somewhere else. Enter The Gage.
The Gage Meal:
Course 1: Scotch Egg Mustard
Course 2: Rillettes Duck and Foie Gras Cherry Compote, Mustard
Course 3: Caramelized Lobster Lemon Quinoa, Basil, Chili
Peppered Angus Hanger Steak Corsican Feta, Watermelon, Red Onion,
Basil, Mint, Aged Vinegar Syrup, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Dessert: “Bar Snacks” Vanilla Tuille, Milk and White Chocolate,
Stout Pastry Cream, Cashew and Caramel Ice Cream, Pretzel
A good meal, I think the standout was the Rillettes, which I've been wanting to try but haven't. Potted meat goodness. Can't wait to try the pork variety. The caramelized lobster was a bit over seasoned and sweet for me, but my wife really enjoyed it. And conversely the Hanger Steak was a bit under seasoned for me, but it is still my favorite steak.
Of course, the Publican meal remained on Father's Day, what a treat! On top of the four course meal there was a beer pairing. But, not any beer pairing, Father Isaac of the only Trappist Brewery outside of Belgium had flown in from the Netherlands to offer the beers of La Trappe.
Publican Meal
Starters: Spicy pork rinds Slagel Family Farm, Fairbury, Illinois
Chef's selection of oysters
Course 1: A sweet salad of strawberries, beets, mint, ricotta salata, honeycomb and muscatel vinegar
Beer 1: Witte Trappist
Course 2: Smoked Duck Breast
Beer 2: Isad'or (Never before served in the States!)
Course 3: Buckwheat Pasta with Sweetbreads
Beer 3: La Trappe Dubbel
Course 4: Porchetta
Beer 4: La Trappe Tripel
Course 5: Apricot Tart with Oatmeal Ice Cream
Beer 5: La Trappe Quadrupel
The meal was excellent. The smoked duck breast also had these crispy shavings of duck that were great. The sweetbreads were cooked well. The porchetta was fantastic. I had the porchetta at Mado as well and I liked this one better. The one at Mado was very different (more on that in the soon to come Mado recap), the one had an almost hammy taste and was sliced very thin with TONS of fat, oh sweet pork fat how your flavor imbues such wonders on all it touches. The tart was sweet and light and the ice cream was great. The beers were spectacular each with its own character and complexity. We were all impressed as well with the serving sizes. There were three of us and the meal was served family style and we left completely satisfied but not overfull, a tricky thing to pull off. I can't wait to go back.
Ah, but friends there is a final chapter to this story, lest you have forgotten about Schwa. What happened to that reservation?! Well, the reservation was rescheduled for that Wednesday! Yes, The Gage, Schwa and the Publican in a week. And, no, we are not independently wealthy. But, a twist! Due to a family emergency we were forced to cancel the Schwa reservation. However, my wife worked her magic once more and we have a reservation for July 18th, so now you have another blog post to look forward to. Phew, what an adventure. But, there is never a dull moment in the Adventures of Pork.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Sorry
OK I know I started this and then disappeared, I need to catch up...so to come soon a full report on the trip to the Publican (and the funny story that surrounds it), as well as the beginning of my look back on past pork adventures in Montreal and Portland.
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